North Walls Project, Solo Mission... 1st Entry..

A few weeks ago I was up around the north walls area and I found something that I thought would make a fun climb. I came back the next day and started climbing, and cleaning a short section. As I was looking at what I had cleaned I found some cool features under all that moss, and dirt. I decided that this was going to be my solo mission. The first ten feet wasn't to difficult but I arrived at a few thin placements, in a thin crack. I wacked in some knifeblades, and hoped they would stick. And as luck would have it they did. I had a couple of days where it was raining and all the mud was casscading down the wall and all over me. It was fun I liked having a project to work on it took up most of my two week holiday. I felt like I was on a mission everyday going up there to work on it for a few hours. I was getting really good at setting up anchors in the crack so that I could leave my rope up there and get back up to where I left off. Most of what I used for anchors were pins, knifeblades and lost arrows. Maybe not the best choice of gear, but it was all that worked..

Mellie's Rock, Squamish BC,....

It was the last day of climbing, before melanie, goes to Hawaii. It was a great day, just like it always is when I get her out there on the rocks. 'Rockin' the rocks, as she says'!!!. It's fun being out there with her, because she's always happy, to be on the rock, and having fun. On wednesday, August 25th it was a great day, not to hot, not to cold just right.. We went to her favourite spot. We did Mellie's route, a three pitch classic slab, I renamed it in honour of her. It was because we found this new area, and Melanie, was the first person that went with me to climb there.. She enjoyed that alot, she even liked leading the second pitch. She was climbing alot better I thought this time, using her feet, and her hands just for balance. It was great because we made some funny videos, with my digital camera. After we went to the Brew Pub, and watched them and had a pretty good laugh. Not to mention we had some good food to end our day!!..

Banana Peel, Adventure!!.. The Apron.

Me, Melanie, and Edgar decided to tackle Banana Peel on the Apron. We arrived at the base of Diedre, and climbed the first slab to the birch tree. An excellent moderate climb with few difficulties, much variety and a few very easy runout sections. We traversed along the fault, and made our way to the base of our intended route. Everyone made it to the first tree belay, at the top of a short slab!!.. Edgar lead the first pitch, and did it fairly well. I was surprised that he only placed two pieces of gear in the whole pitch, he made it to the top, and then it was my turn to go. I climbed up and took out the gear he had placed. I then put Melanie, on belay and she started up the slab, and then she just didn't feel good about continuing on.I also did not think it was a good idea, for her to go on. Safety first.. She was climbing just great up until that point, but because the wind was blowing so hard and it made it very hard to communicate with her, because I couldn't see her, for a short time. We dacided to back off and get Melanie, down to a safe spot. Edgar lowered her down slowly, while I guided the rope.. She was back on the tree ledge and everything was cool!!... I had to go back up the rope batman, style to get up to help edgar, with getting the ropes ready for rappel. It was an adventure, and everyone made it to the ground safely.. We hiked back down to the parking lot, and headed for a well deserved beer, and appies at the Brew Pub. It was a fun day, Edgar, climbed well and Melanie, was definately solid and kept her cool!!.. I was impressed with her because she didn't panic, and let the exposure get to her.. She was awesome the whole time.. An excellent effort by all!!!..

Amo Wall, Route Descriptions, And Route Names...

Pitch 1: The Relish Route, 5.7 28m 8 bolts left. Follow the line of bolts up towards the stump, and up the glassy slab. Pitch 1: Variation, Muckel Onto Ehrr, 5.9 28m 7 bolts right. Crux move surmounting the slab. Pitch 2: The Relish Route, 5.6 22m, 4 bolts left. Pitch 2: Variation, Awol 5.10a 30m 8 bolts right. Cruxy down below monopockets on a steep slab. Pitch 3: The Relish Route, 5.8 25m 7 bolts centre. Crux up high pulling the bulge. Pitch 3: Gihlle Suit 5.9 22m 8 bolts left. A technical fun traversing dyke feature. Pitch 3: The Beaten Zone 5.7 3om just 10 bolts right. Tops out on the cliff with a view of Shannon Falls.. Here are a few pictures, of the routes.

Adventures With Melanie, On the Amo Wall.. To the Top!!..

HEY BUDDY .... RIGHT ON .....

It's so cool to climb with you ...we always have a lot of fun.
I am really excited that we found the "Melly Rock" ;-) at the Shannon Falls...I really love these SPOT!!!!
You know I am fear of heights ... but well.... it gets from climb to climb better
because of you a great teacher ;-) I hope i will get perfect, so i can teach someone when I am back in Germany 'just kidding' ! Next week ... we Rock the Rocks again, Buddy .... !!!! RIGHT ON ...... !!!! The Amo Wall adventure was awesome, We did three pitches, and made it to the top. We sat up there and enjoyed the view, of Howe Sound. Melanie was awesome, she was as cool as a cucumber, following the three pitches. She was as solid as a rock!!. She looked so great up there, confident about what she was doing and where she was. She was so great at figuring out where her feet were supposed to be, and where her hands were.. It was alot of fun climbing up there. With bolts every 2, to 3, ft it was great fun... The slabs were gentle, and rolling, with a few divots here and there.. The foot placements were very secure.. All in all the Amo Wall is a great place to climb on bolts.. Alot of fun awesome climbing, the exposure, is very friendly.. Like it alot and I will be back.. Way to go Squamish!!!... A beginner friendly area!!...

A New Friend, And Climbing Partner...

New friends are great to find, like the one that I recently met a few months ago. It's so cool, to hang out with her. Oh by the way her name is Melanie, she's from Germany. I took her out climbing, and she really enjoyed it alot. We have such a great time hanging out, and we have the best conversations. Since she, has only been out climbing twice she's definately up for the challenge... She's got it going on!!!. Melanie has a cute, and funny way about her. When were out there, she's got a great personality, and a great smile, that makes my day everytime I see her. I know that she, has a great time with me, because she's allways so excited to get out on the rock, for another challenge.. I like that I can take her out there and teach her, something that she's never done before. The one comment that I will remember the most is that when we were out climbing. We were at the Ammo Wall, near Shannon Falls, and she called it MELLIE'S WALL, Our Place!!!... So everytime I go there I will allways remember that saying... I have Melanie to thank for that.!!!

Melanie, And I... Our Place!!!!..

Melanie,and I were talking at work, and she said that I WANT TO GO CLIMBING!!!!.. So we made plans to go the next day, that was the holiday Monday. I was pretty stoked to get her out there again. I showed her how to belay, so that I could lead. We went to Murrin Park, for that part of the lesson. We were at Melanies, favourite crag the Sugerloaf. After I climbed to the top, and put in all the gear she came up after me, and took it all out. After awhile it got pretty crowded and we decided to go check out the Ammo Wall, an area that has just been developed. It has some lead friendly bolted routes. We tried one that was about 28meters, and it had 4 bolts and then two big ones for the anchor. It was awesome the first part was a steep bulge, and then you get up into the slab, with little edges. We got to the top of that one, and then I showed Melanie, how to rappel down. She was very happy with her accomplishment, and the big smile on her face told me everything.. After that she wanted to top rope the same one. She did it twice, and when she came back down to the ground, she said ya!! know what?.. This is OUR PLACE!!!.. It was so nice to be there, because we were the only ones there. That made her feel very confident, relaxed. It was her day, she climbed well for her second time out. She was happy about what she had done, and I myself was very impressed with her effort. It was an AWESOME!! day lots of fun being out there with her, and showing her the ropes..