Friday, September 5, 2008
climbing adventures in squamish bc
i have been climbing in squamish for a long time. the first time i came to climb i was with dave jones. we drove up in his van and we went to the smoke bluffs. he showed me how to place gear at burgers and fries. it was alot of fun. we did a couple of fun routes on the apron. the two classics are banana peel and the ultra classic diedre. these two are the easiest. both are seven pitches of more or less run out climbing. we also did a few climbs at murrin park. there were some slab climbs at the malamute. the comic rocks is an interesting climbing area. we did a route called garfield. i think that was the only climb that we did. the climbing is awesome. before i moved to squamish i met this dude ron springer he was working in the park royal mall. i was working there also. we talked about climbing and we decided to go to the edge climbing center in north van. we went there alot and we were both climbing with some sort of style. we went up to squamish alot and did some climbs at the smoke bluffs. we climbed at murrin park. we did banana peel and diedre. we also made an attempt on mercy me a two pitch run out climb on the grand wall. we only did the first pitch. since i have been living in this area i have met and climbed with so many great people. i have had the opportunity to meet some of the best climbers in squamish. luc mailloux, eric hammel, conny amelunxen, adam diamond, matt maddaloni, and john furneaux,. i also met sean easton. i had the good fotune to climb with john. we climbed wrist twister, and cannabis wall, to great wall climbs. i started to get interested in aid soloing and talked to alot of these guys about different techniques. i used the grigri belay device. one day i went up to the sherrifs wall and i decided to try and solo the first pitch of cowboys and indians. i arrived at the base and geared up. i made my way up on some shifty pins, and cams,. as i got to the point were i had to start traversing accross the wall i was a bit unnerved because i was on some other shifty pieces of gear. most of the pitch was a very thin crack. i finally made it to the belay chains and fixed my lead rope and my rappel rope. i rapped down, and jugged the line cleaning all my gear. that was a great day on the wall. in the year 2000, i met robert steiner from germany he was living and going to school at ubc. he was staying at a frat house. he would hitch-hike up to squamish, and he would solo all sorts of wall climbs. he would fix ropes and show up at my house and we would go out the next morning and have a big wall adveture. robert and i also did cannabis wall, and we tried to do ten years after. i met matt buckle, and robert and we went up on the sherrifs badge. thy fixed a few pitches and i went up to hang out and i took some pictures, and had a great day up on the big stone. its a steep and impressive wall. if i didnt live here i would not have had these great climbing opportunities...
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